Rajgundha, Barot and Bir: An Offbeat Himalayan Backpacking Route

Day 0

Arrival in Bir, Billing and the journey to Rajgundha

The theme of the day is mountain landscapes, waterfalls and village exploration.

Morning — arrival in Bir

Arrive in Bir early in the morning. Rent an Activa for local exploration, have breakfast, collect essentials and prepare for the journey into the mountains.

Stop 1 — Gunehar Waterfall

Begin with Gunehar Waterfall, just outside Bir. It sits in thick greenery and takes a short walk through the village surroundings to reach. Spend some time there before continuing towards Billing.

Stop 2 — Billing paragliding site

Billing is one of India's most famous paragliding take-off points, with spectacular views over the Dhauladhar range and the valleys below. Even without flying, it is worth the ride up to watch pilots preparing for take-off and to take in the panorama.

Afternoon — towards Rajgundha

Carry on towards Rajgundha. The route leaves the familiar tourist areas of Bir behind and climbs into the quieter mountain landscape of Chota Bhangal, through changing scenery and traditional Himalayan settlements.

Evening — arrival in Rajgundha

Reach Rajgundha by evening and check into Zostel Homes. Spend what's left of the day exploring the surroundings and settling into the mountain quiet after the journey.

Day 1

Exploring Rajgundha: mountain trails and the Uhl River

A full day in Rajgundha Valley, given over to village life, trekking, nature and slow travel.

Morning — Rajgundha village

Wake up to mountain views and start with breakfast. Rajgundha is a traditional village of wooden houses, open meadows and mountain streams, with the Dhauladhar range filling the horizon. Walk through it and you get a sense of what life in a remote Himalayan settlement is actually like.

Afternoon — trekking and the riverside

Spend the afternoon in the surroundings:

• Explore the walking trails around Rajgundha.
• Visit the neighbouring village of Kukkar Gundha.
• Walk down towards the Uhl River and spend time beside it.
• Follow the surrounding forest trails and open meadows.
• Photography and mountain views throughout.

For anyone after a longer hike, the trails towards Plachak and the wider Dhauladhar region open up from here.

Evening — relax in the mountains

Head back to Zostel for dinner and a quiet evening. This is the part of the trip that crowded hill stations can't offer.

Day 2

Rajgundha to Barot: hidden waterfalls, then café hopping in Bir

Start early. The theme is offbeat exploration, waterfalls, mountain roads and café culture.

Morning — the journey to Barot Valley

Leave Rajgundha and travel through the Badagran side towards Barot. The journey is as much the point as the destination: mountain scenery, traditional villages, forest and the Uhl River valley the whole way.

The hidden waterfall trail

The most memorable part of this leg is the waterfalls around Barot. The valley is known for the Uhl River and its trout farms, but the surrounding villages and forest roads hide a whole belt of waterfalls and seasonal cascades. Some are marked on travel maps; others are effectively unknown and only turn up through local recommendations and a willingness to go looking.

The waterfall belt runs around:

• Lapas
• Kothi Kohar
• Lohardi
• Kathyaru
• Bakhlog
• The surrounding mountain villages and forest trails

Named spots reported in the wider area include Lapas Waterfall, Sheshnag Waterfall, Kothi Kohar Waterfall, Lohardi Waterfall and Rainbow Waterfall. Beyond those, watch for the smaller unnamed falls and streams along the mountain roads — they are half the reason to take this route slowly.

The rest of Barot

• Uhl River — the river that runs through the valley, and the best of its riverside scenery.
• Barot trout fish farm — a working trout breeding and rearing facility, and an important local activity.
• Shanan hydroelectric project — the historic scheme behind the valley's power infrastructure.
• Barot reservoir and barrage — views out over the water and the mountains behind it.
• The old haulage trolley route — what's left of the trolley infrastructure built for the hydel project.
• Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary — the forested landscape around the valley and its biodiversity.

Afternoon — back to Bir

After Barot, start back towards Bir, trading remote mountain road for the livelier backpacker end of the trip.

Evening — café hopping in Bir

Bir's café culture is the right way to end this. It's a relaxed place with Tibetan influences and a steady backpacker crowd, and after two days in remote villages the contrast is the appeal.

• Café Buransh — Himachali-inspired food and a relaxed atmosphere.
• June 16 Café — coffee, brunch and desserts.
• Silver Linings Café — garden-style café.
• Pahadee Coffee Roasters — specialty coffee.
• Garden Café — a relaxed spot to sit with friends.

Night — departure

After café hopping, head to the bus departure point and board the overnight bus onward. Trip ends.

Places covered

Bir

• Gunehar Waterfall
• Billing paragliding site
• Bir cafés
• The paragliding landing area

Rajgundha

• Rajgundha village
• Kukkar Gundha
• Uhl River
• The Plachak trekking region
• Surrounding forest trails and meadows

Barot

• Lapas Waterfall
• Sheshnag Waterfall
• Kothi Kohar Waterfall
• Lohardi Waterfall
• Rainbow Waterfall
• Uhl River
• Trout fish farm
• Shanan hydroelectric project
• Barot reservoir and barrage
• Nargu Wildlife Sanctuary

Getting there and what to carry

How to reach

• From Delhi: take an overnight bus towards Bir.
• Arrive in Bir early in the morning.
• Rent a two-wheeler for the roads that take one.

Local transport

• Activa or scooter for the motorable sections.
• Trekking for village trails and anything a vehicle can't reach.
• Local transport for the difficult mountain-road sections.

Things to carry

• Comfortable trekking shoes
• Warm clothes and a windcheater
• Rain protection
• Sunglasses and sunscreen
• Power bank
• Water bottle
• Basic medicines and a first-aid kit
• Cash, for the remote villages
• Valid driving licence and helmet

Travel DNA

• Adventure — trekking, mountain exploration and waterfalls.
• Nature — rivers, forests, waterfalls and Himalayan landscapes.
• Relaxation — riverside time and quiet village stays.
• Photography — Dhauladhar views, waterfalls, traditional villages and mountain roads.
• Social — backpacker hostels and café culture in Bir.

Recommended for travellers after an offbeat Himalayan experience that combines adventure, nature and relaxed backpacking.

Practical tips for travellers

1. 1

   Check road conditions first. Confirm the state of the roads before heading towards Rajgundha and Barot on a scooter.

2. 2

   Billing to Rajgundha is a trek, not a ride. That section involves a trekking route and shouldn't be treated as an ordinary scooter road.

3. 3

   Time the waterfalls. Flow is seasonal and generally strongest during and after the monsoon.

4. 4

   Be careful around water. Exercise caution near waterfalls and rivers, particularly during heavy rainfall.

5. 5

   Expect to lose signal. Mobile connectivity can be limited in remote parts of Rajgundha, so sort out plans before you go up.

6. 6

   Don't ride unfamiliar mountain roads after dark. Plan each day's travel to finish in daylight.

7. 7

   Book ahead. Confirm accommodation and transport availability in advance — options are thin in Chota Bhangal.

8. 8

   Carry cash. The remote villages on this route won't take anything else.

Final thoughts

Three days is enough for this route because the three places are so different from each other: a backpacker town with a paragliding scene, a remote village with no crowd and barely any signal, and a valley whose best sights aren't on anyone's map.

The waterfall belt around Barot is the part worth going slowly for. Some of those falls are signposted and some are only found by asking, and that gap is the whole appeal of travelling this side of Himachal.

Use this as a starting point, confirm the roads before you commit to a scooter, and leave the last evening in Bir free — after two days in the mountains, the cafés are earned.